Ancient cliff-carved temple near Ubud, rich in history, spirituality, and natural beauty beside a sacred river.
Carved into a lush river valley in central Bali, Pura Gunung Kawi is one of the island’s oldest and most enigmatic temple complexes. Blending nature, history and spirituality in a way few places can, the site is best known for its towering stone shrines – cut directly into the cliff face – and its peaceful setting among rice terraces, tropical forest, and flowing water. A visit here feels like stepping into a quieter, more sacred version of Bali, where time seems to slow and the stories of the past still echo in the stone.
Getting There: Journey into the Valley
Located in the village of Tampaksiring, just 20 to 25 minutes north of Ubud, Gunung Kawi is easily reached by scooter or private car. The road to the temple winds past small villages and quiet farmland before arriving at a parking area near the entrance. After paying the modest entrance fee (around IDR 50,000), you will be given a sarong and sash if you are not already wearing one, as is required at all Balinese temples. From there, the journey begins on foot, down a long series of stone steps that descend into the sacred valley.
The Descent into Sacred Ground
The descent is part of the experience. As you make your way down, sweeping views open up on both sides – palm trees, steep cliffs, and cascading rice terraces surround you. The sound of water grows louder, and the cool, shaded air offers a break from the heat above. It is easy to understand why this place was chosen for something sacred. At the bottom, the temple reveals itself slowly, with moss-covered stone walls, flowing streams, and ancient carvings blending into the landscape.
The Cliff-Carved Shrines
What makes Gunung Kawi truly unique are the ten massive candi (shrines) carved into the cliff faces. Each is over seven metres tall and shaped like a temple facade, but rather than being built, they were hewn directly out of the rock sometime in the 11th century. Historians believe they were created during the reign of King Anak Wungsu of the Warmadewa dynasty. The shrines are thought to be memorials for the king and his royal family, though some of the historical details remain uncertain, adding to the site’s mystique.
The Sacred River and Ritual Purification
There are two main groups of shrines – five on the eastern bank of the Pakerisan River, and another five across a narrow stone bridge on the western side. The river itself, flowing calmly through the centre of the valley, adds to the temple’s spiritual significance. In Balinese Hinduism, water is considered sacred and cleansing, and the presence of the river turns the valley into a naturally consecrated space. Small fountains and pools feed into the temple’s water features, which are still used for purification rituals by local devotees.
A Living Temple
Gunung Kawi is not just a monument to the past – it is still an active place of worship. You will often see local people praying, making offerings, or tending to the shrines. Incense wafts through the air, and the occasional sound of chanting or temple bells adds to the atmosphere. Because the temple is not as heavily visited as others like Besakih or Tanah Lot, there is a strong sense of peace here. It feels more intimate, more connected to the earth and its rhythms.
Symbolism and Spiritual Beliefs
Spiritually, the temple reflects Balinese beliefs about ancestry, kingship, and the afterlife. The shrines are both tributes to royal ancestors and markers of the connection between the earthly and divine realms. In Balinese culture, the dead are not gone – they are present, guiding, and to be honoured through ceremony. Gunung Kawi, with its solemn carvings and natural beauty, is a place where those beliefs are given form.
Simplicity of Stone and Landscape
The architecture at Gunung Kawi is a departure from more ornate Balinese temples. There are no elaborate gates or brightly coloured decorations. Instead, the temple draws its power from the landscape and the simplicity of its design. The stone shrines, weathered and worn, seem to grow out of the rock itself. They are monumental yet quiet, and their scale impresses not through ornamentation but through the raw effort it must have taken to create them – by hand, without modern tools, nearly a thousand years ago.
Hidden Details to Discover
As you explore the site, take time to notice the smaller details. Carvings of guardian figures, meditation niches used by priests, and ancient inscriptions are scattered throughout the complex. Some of these niches are still used today by local holy men for prayer and reflection. There is a strong sense that this is a living temple, not just a relic.
On the way back up the steps, you may feel the climb – but also a kind of lightness that comes from spending time in such a grounding space. Local vendors sometimes line the path selling fresh coconuts, sarongs, handmade crafts and simple snacks. It is a nice moment to pause and enjoy the view back over the valley.
Gunung Kawi is also often paired with a visit to Tirta Empul, another sacred water temple located just 5 minutes up the road. Visiting both on the same day offers a deeper understanding of how the Balinese integrate land, water, and spirit into their religious life. Where Tirta Empul is about purification through water, Gunung Kawi speaks to memory, ancestry, and the quiet strength of the past.
A Timeless Experience
Though smaller in scale than some of Bali’s grander temples, Gunung Kawi offers something different – an atmosphere of quiet reverence, natural beauty, and historical depth. It is a place that rewards the curious and the contemplative. You do not just see the temple; you feel it. The stone under your feet, the breeze through the valley, the presence of something older than memory. All of it combines into an experience that stays with you long after you have left.
For travellers seeking a more thoughtful, off-the-beaten-path cultural experience, Gunung Kawi is a must. It is a place to slow down, take in the layers of history, and connect with a side of Bali that often hides behind the headlines and hashtags. Step into the valley, and you step into a different rhythm – one shaped by kings, rivers, and the enduring devotion of those who came before.