DISCOVERING BALI’S PEACEFUL DIVE COAST

Bali’s northeast coast feels worlds away from the busy beach towns in the south. Here, the pace is slower, the beaches are lined with fishing boats rather than beanbags, and the underwater world is every bit as colourful as the island’s famed rice terraces.

Amed and its neighbour Tulamben have become known as Bali’s diving and snorkelling paradise. The area stretches across a string of small coastal villages, each with a slightly different personality. Black sand beaches, gentle sunrises over the Lombok Strait, and easy access to some of the island’s best reefs make it an appealing escape for travellers who prefer nature over nightlife.

WHERE ARE AMED AND TULAMBEN?

Amed and Tulamben are in Karangasem Regency, about 80 to 100 kilometres from Denpasar. They are only 20 minutes apart by road, making it easy to stay in one and explore both. Travel times from major hubs:

·       Ubud: 2.5–3 hours

·       Sanur: 2.5 hours

·       Sidemen: 1.5 hours

·       Ngurah Rai Airport: 3 hours

The coastal road winds through hills, villages, and scenic viewpoints of Mount Agung and the ocean.

TOP THINGS TO DO

Snorkelling Reefs

One of the biggest drawcards here is how easy it is to snorkel right from the shore. Many beaches have reefs just metres from the sand, so you can walk in and be surrounded by coral gardens in minutes. Popular snorkelling spots include:

·       Jemeluk Bay – Calm waters, colourful coral, and frequent turtle sightings.

·       Lipah Beach – Clear water and a shallow Japanese shipwreck.

·       Bunutan – Known for soft corals and abundant reef fish.

Pro Tip: Bring or rent fins for easier swimming, as currents can be stronger further out. Note also that not all beaches are sandy however, some are quite rocky, so it is a good idea to bring reef shoes with you.

Diving the USAT Liberty Wreck in Tulamben

The USAT Liberty, a World War II cargo ship, rests just 30 metres from the shore in Tulamben. Sunk in 1942 and shifted to its current position by a volcanic eruption in 1963, it is now one of the most accessible wreck dives in the world.

·       Depth: 5 to 30 metres, suitable for beginners and experienced divers.

·       Marine life: Barracuda, bumphead parrotfish, nudibranchs, and schooling jackfish.

·       Access: Shore entry, no boat needed.

Local dive centres run guided dives, night dives, and introductory courses if you are new to scuba.

Sunrise Views of Mount Agung

Amed’s beaches face east, which means you can watch the sun rise over the ocean with Mount Agung silhouetted behind you. The calm morning seas often mirror the colours of the sky.

Fishing Boat Tours

Traditional jukung boats can be hired for sunrise fishing trips or coastal cruises. Some trips include snorkelling stops at secluded spots.

Salt Farming

In Amed, salt farming is still done the traditional way. Families evaporate seawater in conical containers made from coconut trunks, producing pure sea salt. You can visit salt farms, watch the process, and buy small bags as souvenirs.

BEACHES OF AMED AND TULAMBEN

The beaches here are mostly volcanic black sand or pebbles, created by centuries of Mount Agung’s activity. While they do not have the white sand postcard look, they have their own charm, especially when the dark sand contrasts with turquoise water.

Best Beaches to Visit

·       Jemeluk Beach: Calm, good for swimming, dotted with beachfront cafes.

·       Lipah Beach: Family-friendly, with easy snorkelling.

·       Tulamben Beach: Rocky shore, but world-class diving right offshore.

CULTURAL ENCOUNTERS

Unlike heavily developed tourist areas, Amed and Tulamben are still working fishing communities. It is common to see fishermen mending nets on the sand, children playing by the shore, and temple ceremonies spilling out onto the beach.

WHERE TO STAY

Luxury

·       Mathis Lodge Amed – Private villas on a hillside with sweeping ocean views.

·       Palm Garden Amed Beach & Spa Resort – Beachfront with lush gardens and a pool.

Mid-Range

·       Santai Hotel Amed – Balinese-style bungalows and beachfront dining.

·       Blue Moon Villas – Overlooks the ocean, with an excellent restaurant.

Budget

·       Amed Beach Villa – Simple rooms just steps from the sand.

·       Divers Cafe Bungalows – Basic but popular with divers for its location.

Personal Recommendation

·       The Kampung – The Kampung located in Bunutan is a boutique retreat that combines Balinese village charm with warm, personal service. The friendly staff go beyond expectations, happily preparing home-cooked meals featuring fresh local ingredients, from traditional Indonesian dishes to simple Western favourites. Accommodation ranges from traditional wooden bungalows to spacious villas with modern comforts, each thoughtfully decorated and surrounded by lush gardens. Many offer ocean or mountain views, adding to the sense of tranquillity. What makes The Kampung special is its blend of authentic Balinese atmosphere, attentive hospitality, and a setting that feels both secluded and deeply connected to the local community.

WHERE TO EAT

·       Galanga: Creative Indonesian and Asian fusion dishes in a stylish garden setting.

·       Warung Enak: Known for its fresh fish and generous portions.

·       Warung Pantai: Simple, family-run spot right on the beach in Jemeluk.

·       Seafood is a highlight – try grilled mahi-mahi, tuna steaks, or squid, often caught the same morning.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

From the South: Private car with driver is the most convenient.

From Nearby Towns: Sidemen, Candidasa, and Padangbai are all within 1 to 2 hours.

Local Transport: Scooters are ideal for hopping between beaches and villages.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Dry Season (April to October): Best for visibility underwater and calm seas.

Wet Season (November to March): Fewer tourists, greener landscapes, but choppier seas and reduced visibility for diving.

Early mornings have the calmest water for snorkelling.

TRAVEL TIPS

Cash: Limited ATMs that are sometimes out of service; bring enough for your stay.

Gear: Bring reef-safe sunscreen, mask, and snorkel if you have them.

Dive Safety: Always dive with a reputable operator; currents can vary.

Shoes: Beaches can be pebbly; reef shoes are helpful.

ITINERARY IDEAS

One-Day Visit

·       Morning snorkelling in Jemeluk Bay.

·       Lunch at a beachfront warung.

·       Afternoon drive to Tulamben for the Liberty wreck.

·       Sunset seafood dinner in Amed.

Two to Three Days

·       Day 1: Jemeluk and Lipah snorkelling.

·       Day 2: Dive or snorkel Liberty wreck, visit salt farms.

·       Day 3: Explore nearby fishing villages or take a boat tour.

Amed and Tulamben offer a side of Bali that feels refreshingly authentic. Whether you come for the world-class diving, the peaceful beaches, or simply to escape the bustle of the south, this stretch of coastline rewards you with experiences you will remember long after you leave. With easy access to vibrant reefs, black sand beauty, and warm village hospitality, it is one of the best places in Bali to slow down and connect with both nature and culture. Wander Beyond Ordinary!