A serene coastal village where Bali’s mountains meet the sea in quiet harmony.
On Bali’s far northeastern coastline, where the volcanic slopes begin their final descent to the sea, lies the quiet village of Tembok. It sits between Tejakula and Amed, and while it rarely features in mainstream guidebooks, Tembok is a place that quietly offers the things many travellers seek – tranquillity, natural beauty, and a strong sense of place. There are no crowds here, no rows of shops or beach clubs. Instead, you get black sand beaches, mountain air, and the feeling that time moves just a little more slowly.
Tembok is part of the Buleleng Regency, a district known for its calm coastal villages, diving spots, and deeply rooted local traditions. The drive from the south of Bali takes about three to four hours, climbing and curving through mountains, rice fields, and clove plantations. It is a scenic journey, and arriving in Tembok feels like stepping into a different rhythm – one shaped more by tides and temple days than traffic or schedules.
The coastline here is dramatic. The beach is made of black volcanic sand and stones, not the kind you lay a towel on, but perfect for early walks and quiet reflection. The sea is usually calm, with soft waves and long views across the Bali Sea. On clear days, you can see the shadows of Mount Rinjani in Lombok rising in the distance.
A Village of Retreats and Warm Welcomes
What draws some visitors to Tembok is its reputation as a wellness and retreat destination. The entire village carries a feeling of retreat. There are a few small homestays and guesthouses, often run by local families, and many visitors come to do very little – read, swim, reflect, and reconnect with themselves. The Kirana Tembok offers peaceful, budget-friendly stays with mountain views and a relaxed atmosphere. Set among gardens just steps from the coast, it is ideal for travellers seeking quiet, local charm. The rooms are simple but clean, and the staff are warm and genuinely welcoming. A true hidden gem and a good spot for a spa treatment. Unfortunately the best spa retreat in the area, Spa Village Resort, is now closed until further notice.
Exploring the Backroads and Beyond
The surrounding landscape invites exploration. Inland from the coast, narrow roads lead through traditional farming communities, with rice terraces, fruit trees, and mountain views. You can walk or ride through these backroads and find temples, family compounds, and simple shrines tucked among the hillsides. The people of Tembok are warm and welcoming, and tourism – while growing slowly – is still managed in a very low-key, community-rooted way.
Just to the east, day trips to Amed are easy, offering snorkelling and diving opportunities, while inland journeys toward Kintamani or Mount Batur provide cooler air and breathtaking mountain views. If you are interested in Bali’s spiritual side, you can also visit sacred springs and lesser-known temples scattered throughout the region. Everything feels quieter here – less curated for visitors, and more authentic in rhythm and detail.
Sunrises are especially beautiful in Tembok. With its east-facing coastline, the sky often lights up in soft shades of orange and pink, and the only sounds are birds and waves. In the evening, locals gather along the shore to fish or chat, and small shrines are lit with offerings. It is not a place with entertainment in the usual sense – but if you are willing to slow down, there is a kind of depth to be found here that is harder to come by in Bali’s more developed areas.
There are no big restaurants or shops in Tembok. Most meals are home-cooked or served in small warungs. Expect grilled fish, nasi campur, fresh fruit, and simple but satisfying local flavours. It is a good idea to bring some cash, as there are no ATMs nearby, and phone reception can be patchy. But that is part of the charm – Tembok asks you to unplug a little, to adapt to a slower flow.
Getting to Tembok is straightforward with a private driver or rented scooter. From Ubud or Denpasar, the most direct route is through Kintamani and the northern highlands, offering stunning views along the way. From Amed, it is an easy one-hour drive. The village is spread out along the coastal road, with accommodations tucked among gardens or facing the sea.
For travellers looking for peace and space to reflect, Tembok is a quiet refuge. It is ideal for solo travellers, couples, writers, or anyone seeking a break from Bali’s more active scenes. There is not much to “do” in the usual tourist sense – and that is exactly the point.
